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Carbonara In A Can? This Italian Chef Thinks It's 'genius,' But He'll Never Eat It

Heinz is releasing spaghetti carbonara in a can in the U.K., much to the dismay of foodies and high-end chefs. (Kraft Heinz)

As It Happens6:13Carbonara in a can? This Italian chef thinks it's 'genius,' but he'll never eat it

Chef Alessandro Pipero says he doesn't begrudge Heinz for selling a creamy spaghetti in a can. But he wouldn't call it carbonara. 

"I'm a Roman man and I love the real carbonara," Pipero told As It Happens guest host Tom Harrington.

In a press release, Heinz billed its new canned spaghetti carbonara as a "fail-proof" version of the traditional Italian dish "that comes with absolutely zero drama."

But it's already causing quite a bit of drama among foodies and high-end restaurateurs. A chef in London called it "a disgrace," and a BBC presenter suggested it could mark "the end of culinary civilization."

The controversial culinary creation hits shelves in the U.K. This month, but it will not be coming to Canada. 

What goes in cabonara?

Like many popular dishes, carbonara's origins — and ideal list of ingredients — are both the subject of debate. Generally, it's made with pasta, cured pork, hard cheese, eggs, salt, and black pepper.

That's how Pipero makes it at his eponymous Michelin-starred restaurant in Rome. He says the noodles are firm, the pork is crispy, the eggs are fresh, and the cheese is pecorino romano.

The canned version, by comparison, includes pasta, pepper and pancetta, but also has a long list of hard-to-pronounce ingredients, including maltodextrin and sodium ascorbate.

"Theirs is not al dente," he said, referring to the pasta's texture. "Theirs is not fresh…. Theirs is not pecorino." 

Pipero has not tasted the product, which is not available in Italy. But even if he had the chance, he says he wouldn't. 

"No, never," he said. 

Spaghetti carbonara is traditionally made with pasta, eggs, salt, pepper, fatty cured pork and hard cheese. (Andreas Solaro/AFP/Getty Images)

In an interview with the Times newspaper, Pipero was adamant that cans are for Coca-Cola and cat food, not carbonara. 

But on CBC Radio, he was more generous, admitting he finds the concept both "genius" and "industrious" on Heinz's part. 

"I have no problem with Heinz," he said. "Maybe I have a problem with people that buy the carbonara from Heinz and say, 'Good,' then they buy it again."

He says he plans to sell his own carbonara sauce in Italian supermarkets soon, minus the noodles, and made from fresh ingredients.

Asked whether he's doing the same thing as Heinz, he chuckled.

"I don't know," he said, "but maybe tomorrow I will write to Heinz."

Ciara Tassoni, who manages the Italian restaurant Bottega Prelibato in London, expressed no such admiration for the food company's business acumen. 

"It's a disgrace and it couldn't be any further from authentic carbonara," she told the U.K.'s Sun newspaper. "If somebody came in here and asked for a can of carbonara they would immediately be thrown out."

Bottega Prelibato famously took carbonara off its menu last year because British customers kept asking for it to be cooked with cream, mushrooms and chicken.

The addition of cream to carbonara is particularly controversial. In 2017, celebrity chef Nigella Lawson came under fire in Italy for releasing a carbonara recipe that included it. 

The Heinz carbonara is described as "creamy" on its pink and yellow can, and its ingredients include milk powder.

'A long tradition of spaghetti in a can'

Harry Wallop, a consumer affairs columnist for the Times newspaper, downplayed the carbonara controversy during an interview on BBC Radio's Today.

Carbonara, Wallop said, is "modern invention" that dates back to the 1950s, or '40s at the earliest, depending on who you ask.

But canned pasta, he says, goes back even further. A lot of Brits, he argued, didn't even know spaghetti existed until Heinz started selling it in cans in the 1930s.

"There is a long tradition of spaghetti in a can," Today host Jonny Dymond replied. "But there is not a long tradition of very nice spaghetti in a can, let's be honest." 

Pizza on pineapples is another controversial twist on Italian cuisine. (El Nariz/Shutterstock)

Heinz is standing by its product. The company says its market research shows Gen-Z consumers are looking for quick and easy meal options. 

"Our new Spaghetti Carbonara delivers just that," Kraft Heinz meal director Alessandra de Dreuille said in a press release. "It's the perfect solution for a quick and satisfying meal at home."

As far as Pipero is concerned, canned carbonara is by far the strangest twist on Italian cuisine that he's seen — and he's seen a lot. He says he once witnessed someone in a hotel having "cappuccino with porchetta." He did not say if the pork roast was in the coffee, or on the side. 

"It was incredible," he said. "I decided that, in life, all is possible."

Harrington asked Pipero to weigh in on pineapple pizza, a highly divisive dish of Canadian origin.

"I don't like pineapple on pizza. But I like pizza, and I like pineapple. You understand?" Pipero said. 

"I understand," Harrington replied. 

Heinz Launches New Meal In A Tin For £2 In 'fail-proof' Gift For Kitchen-dodging Gen Z

HEINZ has launched spaghetti carbonara in a tin — claiming the pasta is a fail-proof gift for kitchen-dodging Gen Z.

It comes as a third of young people claim they are hopeless at cooking and want quick, easy grub instead.

Heinz has launched spaghetti carbonara in a tin

The £2 no-drama carbonara was introduced for lazy Gen ZCredit: Getty

The £2 no-drama carbonara was introduced because Gen Z consistently ranks the dish as one of the toughest to whip up.

Heinz claimed it has made a "recipe that's fail-proof, taking all the fuss out of cooking, allowing pasta lovers to nail it every time".

But the move has enraged pasta purists, who branded the can version a "disgrace".

Alessandra de Dreuille, meals director at Kraft Heinz said: "We understand people are looking for convenient meals that are effortless to prepare.

"Our spaghetti carbonara delivers just that.

"It's the perfect solution for a quick and satisfying meal at home."

But Ciara Tassoni, 31, who manages posh Italian restaurant Bottega Prelibato, in Shoreditch, East London, said anybody who asked for a can-style carbonara would be quickly shown the door.

The restaurant made headlines last year for banning the traditional dish after British customers kept demanding cream, mushrooms and chicken were added.

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Ciara said: "Now they are putting it in a can? It's a disgrace and it couldn't be any further from authentic carbonara.

"If somebody came in here and asked for a can of carbonara they would immediately be thrown out."

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The origins and recipe for carbonara are often disputed.

Most say it is a simple dish of pancetta, eggs cooked by the hot pasta, and hard cheese.

Heinz Releases New 'fail-proof' Tinned Spaghetti Carbonara

The company is famous worldwide for a range of products ranging from ketchup and beans to soup and pasta sauces.

But the latest edition to its range has been met with mixed opinions.

Heinz releases new Spaghetti Carbonara

With how to perfect making carbonara a hot topic online, Heinz said it has been working hard to create a "fail-proof, quick and easy carbonara that comes with absolutely zero drama".

Heinz's new Spaghetti Carbonara will be available in supermarkets across the country from September. (Image: Heinz)

The new Heinz Spaghetti Carbonara, it said, achieves just that providing a tasty carbonara recipe that's fail-proof and that takes all the fuss out of cooking, allowing pasta lovers to nail it every single time.

Meals Director at Kraft Heinz, Alessandra de Dreuille said: "We understand that people are looking for convenient meals that are effortless to prepare, and our new Spaghetti Carbonara delivers just that.

"It's the perfect solution for a quick and satisfying meal at home.

"Whether enjoyed as a comforting meal after a long day or shared with friends whilst catching up on the latest TV series, Heinz Spaghetti Carbonara is the perfect fuss-free dinner solution."

Fans divided on new Heinz Spaghetti Carbonara

News of the new tinned Heinz product has left some fans excited.

One person, commenting on a post about the tinned pasta on the Facebook group Extreme Bargains UK, said: "I may have to try this hahah love a pasta in a tin."

Another simply added: "Yummm."

While a third person commented: "You know how i feel about food in tins (sick emoji) BUT id actually try this."

But others weren't so complimentary of the new Heinz carbonara.

One user on X (formerly Twitter) commented: "This abomination is beyond the pale. Shame on you."

While another posted: "Excuse me while I go puke."

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